I bought a 12 Hole Marinebandin key of C, because I like to play in those lower notes and I’m still lousy at bending those lower notes. I like it but I find it hard to draw on yet, I hope that’s going to improve as I use it more often. The reed plates in there are riveted together, so you can’t take them apart, which I find very odd. Why would they do that?If need be I can go in there to do some regapping , but only with the covers off of it.Anybody have any experience with that? Still waiting for my Lee Oscar Harmonic Minor. Been on back order for 3 weeks, I guess they are hard to get.Oh well, in due time.John
I have two in C and one in G, they are all very leaky and slow to respond. I work on ten hole Marine bands, drilling and tapping for screw assembly, sealing the comb (beeswax) gapping, tunng, etc.
I have been playing, or more aptly trying to play, one of my C’s. It is now on my bench. I’ll first drill and tap, then sand the reedplates and comb to as flat as possible, and start the reed work while the comb is curing. Once I have tuned and reassembled I’ll let you know how it went.
Thanks Supe for your response.I’m almost sorry I bought the thing but I hope with enough tweaking I can get the thing to work properly. I’m anxious to find out how you make out with the modifications on yours.Like they say ,“Problems shared are problems almost solved”.John
;D The harmonica I am working on is a 14 hole Marine Band, my mistake, that said the problems I am finding on these longer 12-14 hole Marine Bands is they seem to be very leaky in the middle range of the harp. Trying to drill and tap the comb tines in order to get a tighter seal often results in the tine breaking as there just isn’t enough material left after drilling. My plan is to probably use both screws and the drive pins that attach the reedplates, screws where I can, and the drivepins in the tines.
I am an ex-cabinetmaker. If you want to go through the trouble, the way to drill the tines safely is to cut small blocks of wood to fill the voids between the tines (all of them). Place the comb lenghwise in a clamp, then drill holes where needed. The pressure from the filler blocks keep the walls of the tooth being drilled from blowing out.
It’s a lot of work to go thru, but the process will work.
Moot point, the harp is shot.
I’m taking my 12 hole marine band to Hohner repair and let them do what they can to make it more airtight, This is ridiculous, I paid $ 55 Canadian dollars with the taxes for that sucker, and it does’t want to suck!!Between my Chrometta and this 12 hole I’m thinking Hohner sucks. These are not cheap instruments. Hohner!! are you listening.?
I’ve had many MB364’s, 365’s, and SBS’s… hated their size, nailed construction, swelling comb, and response.
Try Seydel SolistPro12, they are the only 12-holers that are made to be played.
I’ve purchased a chromatic 12 hole Hohner 270, so I don’t have to use that 12 hole Marineband diatonic.Too bad , I wasted 55 bucks , but lesson learned.Those things leak so bad you can’t play them.Even after having it back to Hohner repair to fix it , it came back with the message that nothing was wrong with it. Shows you what they know.John
If you take apart the 270 model andd take a closer look at the mouthpiece, you will notice that it’s bent inwards (the front part of the comb is not flat)
The reedplates, however, ARE straight at the front. Which leaves you with two holes at each side, welcoming air leaks.
At no point are the Hohner reedplates attached to the comb tines. As I can see condensation on the reedplates at every hole caused by leakiness.
The 14 holer I was intending to optimize had a bad reed, it isn’t a problem to transplant a reed (takes me about 45 mins. using the Bill Romel method) What caused my vexation was having to drill the tines.
I would have had to order a new screw size to accomodate the smaller holes that I would have to use at the tines and didn’t seem worth the effort at this point. I see it on my bench everyday, so maybe one day when I am bored…yeah maybe.
SuPeR pReSiDeNt DuDe