The hole 3 problem you describe sounds very much like a reed gap problem. By that I mean the free end of the reed (in this case the 3 draw reed – which is visible on the bottom of the harp after you remove the covers). The distance between the free end of the reed and the surface of the reed plate is the reed gap, and it should be about the same as the thickness of the free end of the reed: not too much space and not too little space. Since you seem to have no problems with bends on holes one, two and four, compare their gaps with the gap for the hole three draw reed – this can help to give you a guide for adjusting the gap of the hole three reed. Notice also that the thickest reed is for hole one and the free ends of the reeds become thinner (and therefore the gaps become smaller) as you progress up towards the reeds for the higher pitched notes.
If the gap appears to be too large, you can use, for example, a wooden toothpick to press the free end down into the slot of the reed plate. The stainless steel reeds are quite sturdy, so the chance of breaking it is only marginal. However, that also means that it will not respond to your bending it down as easily as a brass reed would, so you may have to repeatedly press the free end of the reed down before the space (gap) actually becomes less (and remains that way) after you release the toothpick. When the space appears to be correct, put the cover plates back on and give the 3 draw bends a test.
If, however the space (gap) at the end of the reed is too small then you need to pull up on the free end of the reed to make it become larger. Although that is a stainless steel reed, be careful when pulling up on the free end. I usually place the thumbnail of the hand holding the harp at the rivet end of the reed to prevent pulling the entire reed too far up: you only really want about the final quarter of the reed length to get raised up (and the critical gap is at the very end of the reed). An alternative is to push the reed up by inserting the toothpick into hole three and pressing up on the underside of the reed, trying to primarily press at the free end of the reed (not at the rivet end). When you see that the gap has increased, appears to be correct, and remains that way after releasing it, put the covers back on and test the hole 3 bends.
It is often necessary to repeat these steps several times before you get the gap to be correct and the reed to respond correctly. If you have done this and the gap looks perfect, but you still cannot get the hole 3 bends to work, then let me know and I will try to assist you further.
I almost forgot your final question: the PowerBender reed plates were developed by the famous Brendan Power and are now built and assembled at the Seydel factory. They have a different layout of the notes at the upper octave of the harp. See the tone table on this page for the PowerBender and compare it to a “normal” diatonic harp in the same key.
Hi @Slim
Wow, Ya learn something every day! That PowerBender is something else. Im too scared to find out the price as i might be tempted and i’ve been spending a bit lately on harmonicas. Might reward myself when i hit some milestones!
Sorry i haven’t got back to you earlier but i’ve been away from home and out of my regular routine. Thanks soo much for the detailed description of tuning my 3 draw on the Seydel. That was the trick!, it has improved out of site. I had to take it apart about 8 times and do some very slight tweaking but eventually i got it to bend.
Really glad to hear that you were able to use my instructions to save your 1847 harp!! I am fairly certain you will agree that this was worth the time and effort spent!
As for the Seydel 1847 PowerBender harps: they cost approx. 20% more than the standard Richter 1847 models. There is also the Session Steel models that can be purchased with PowerBender reed plates (these reedplates will not fit onto an 1847 comb), and it costs almost 30% less than the 1847 PowerBender model – but for me the better tone and playability of the 1847 PowerBender is easily worth the extra cost.
Hi @Slim
I’ve already got the PowerBender on the Christmas list! Just could not believe the sound of it… soo rich.
After your instruction on repairing my Seydel 1847 i’m going to have a crack at my Hohner Special 20. The 4 draw just blew out after playing it for approximately 10 months. Are they repairable or do they just die?
It depends on what exactly happened to the 4 draw reed: if it actually, physically broke then I would order a new set of reed plates from the Hohner CSHOP (this is where I purchase my replacement parts). Here you will want the item Reed plate set - Special 20 Classic (unless you wish to try the alternate “country tuning” plates SP 20 Country).
Hmm … I just noticed that the link above is for the English language version of the German website and it says there that they do not ship to US or Canadian residents. There is a link on that page for the Hohner US CSHOP that ships only to US and Canadian residents – and, if I recall correctly, you are in Australia (?) … if so, then you will want to check the shipping costs on this page. You don’t want to end up spending more to repair the old Special 20 if that would cost more than simply buying a new one!
They also sell sets of reeds only, but that requires special tools (which they also sell) and costs significantly more (since you get something like 5 sets of 20 reeds).
G’Day @Slim
The draw reed is not broken its just gone missing, musically. Its still in tact it just wont respond when i draw on it. In my limited experience i figured that this just happens with age and over use so i thought that i could adjust the reed back into its original position.??
On the subject of buying new reed plates i have spoken to my local music shop and they import the reed plates in on order at a price of approx $45 AUD for a pair which i am taking that as the blow and draw reed plates.
And, yes you have a good memory, i’m in Australia!
Yes, you are correct: the pair of reed plates is comprised of one draw plate and one blow plate, each with the reeds already installed.
As for your Special 20 with the currently misbehaving 4 draw reed, I suggest toying around with that 4 draw reed, looking back over my other posts concerning reed gapping and shape to get some more tips. If the gap is too small, zero or even negative then the reed will not sound. A certain minimum (positive) gap is required.
Also, reeds can become rotated in their slot (for example, by dropping the harp on the floor). To check this hold the reed plate (removed from the comb) up to a light or the bright sky and look carefully at the 4 draw reed to see if it has been rotated at the rivet end either clockwise or counter-clockwise so that the long axis of the reed is no longer exactly in the middle of the long axis of the slot. You should be able to see light coming through long space between the long edges the reed and the sides of its slot in the plate. This light (that is: the space between the reed sides and the slot sides) needs to be equal in width when you compare the left with the right side light “bar” or thin little stripe of light. If the reed is off-center then that can also either completely stop the reed from moving or, if it can move, it rubs the edges of the slot, usually producing an unpleasant buzz or even a squealing sound.
You must then try to rotate the reed back to the exact middle to get it back to its normal position in the slot. How to do this? I have done it using a razor blade, or my finger nail or a thin shim (approx. 0.20-0.25 mm thick; or about 0.008-0.01 inch thick).
If you break it or never get it right, then either order the new plates or a new harp.
G’day. Just butting in to say that I’ve seen (and bought but not yet received) Lee Oskars for $54 aud, with free shipping. $65 to $75 is more common, but a few places have $54… So you might be better off just buying a new one if you get the desired key, at the right price. Ozwinds was were I bought mine, but Googling “Buy Lee Oskar harmonica” will lead you to ads from the various music shops and online stores. Finding the free shipping was the hard part, since covid, it’s not so readily available.
One store I contacted, were still advertising free shipping over $50, and afterpay, but offers neither, and blames Google for out of date advertising. So it’s best to shop around.
Happy Harping mate!
Hi @Dave_Dunn
That’s a handy bit of info Dave, i’ve got 2 sets of reed plates on order for my special 20’s as we speak and it is taking forever to get them in, and i’m weighing up whether its worth the cost. I can almost buy a new harp for the amount they are charging.
I’ll give it a try! Thanks mate.
Yeah, Special 20s are $65 nearly everywhere, I was surprised to find Lee Oskars for $54.
I just thought I’d chime in with some Australian info, seeing I’ve been looking into my online options over the last few weeks. I’m in regional S.A., so there’s no choice but to shop online.
Nice to have some Aussie local info now and then. Thanks. I’m going to the US in a couple of months so i will have to be restrained from some of the harmonica bargains that they get over there!
You’re not kidding!
I see an unbelievable bargain, $38 shipping from the states!
What gets me is, I bought a Hohner Pro from Germany, $13 shipping! I don’t know why it costs so much more to ship something from the U.S… I’ve sent things to the US and the UK, it really doesn’t cost much at all. Postage from the US to Australia costs a lot though.
I’d be worried myself, how are you going to explain that the 35 harmonicas in your suitcase are for personal use only?!
Saw a joke once in a guitar magazine, about 15-20 years ago. The guy was lying in bed with his guitar and his wife said that she thought he loved the guitar more than her. To which he replied, but I love you more than my banjo!
@HorseDoctor - did you ever pull the trigger? I’m considering purchasing this in hopes that it helps inspire me to overcome my FOFH (fear of fixing harps. )
In over 55 years of playing I’ve had 3 Lee Oscar harps. None of the three played well out-of-the-box (stuck reeds, buzzing reeds, etc). I had heard good things about them. I bought my first and was never satisfied even after repaired.
So, many years after my first, I needed harps for a gig that night and hopeful I’d had a one time experience, bought the 2nd & 3rd (each had problems). I read that someone had written to the company with a problem and Lee personally responded. I wrote and no one responded.
I’ve seldom had harp problems aside from a drop in quality of the Marine Band 15-20 years ago (I found better alternatives), so my. experience with Lee Oscar’s seems different than what I hear from most people. I did recycle mine and the person liked them following some work. So, it’s a happy ending.
I am fairly certain you will agree that this was worth the time and effort spent!
at customs.
To which he replied, but I love you more than my banjo! 
)