I was just wondering how you play 2 notes at the same time that are not beside each other. For example hole 1 and 3?
First Welcome to the forum with your very first Post hopefully more to come ;D
Let me see you’ll probably get lots of suggestions on that. I think playing the 1 and 3 is difficult
because you’ll have to block the 2 with your tongue.
But the 1 and 4 is very doable and it’s called playing an octave and it sounds out of this world.
You can play 1 4 or 2 5 or 3 6 etc… with practice.
Widen your mouth slightly and lay tip of your tongue and try and block the 2 and 3 while playing the 1 and 4.
I tried to find a good youtube video to help you but couldn’t maybe someone else can.
Most people want to learn how to split the octaves - such as 1-4, 2-5, 3-6 - here you’re wanting to take it down a notch as it were.
Jon Gindick provides such a lesson on this. However, you’ll probably have to join his pay membership site to learn more about it. He’s a great teacher and good dude! Worth looking into as well. Be that as it may…
Being said though, by utilizing the single hole method taught by many such as David Harp, even JP himself, and reworking it, I’m sure you can begin learning this technique.
What’s the single hole method, you ask?
A: Using Scotch Tape!
Meaning, instead of taping everything on either side of the single note you want to learn, rather it’s going to be done with the following adjustments:
I would probably start with a 2-4 or a 4-6 as it’s easier to work with. But I’ll use 2-4 as my example here:
By carefully taping up the 1 hole, the 3 hole and 5/6 holes - All that’s left open are the 2 and 4 for your mouth to work on.
So by placing the tip of your tongue on the taped 3 hole, drawing in, blowing out, back and forth, etc. - You should have a good idea of what the split sounds like.
Removing the tape on the 3 hole only - Play the split again.
Then when you’re comfortable with that, remove all the tape, and play the split making sure the 1 and 4 holes aren’t being sounded. And there you go!
Of course, If you’re having difficulities with moving up to the 4-6 split - Well, just make sure you have plenty more scotch tape on hand to help you out!
That’s the best I can explain on how to do this. However, speaking of Mr Jon G, here is a vid from his jam camp where he plays those single hole splits. Enjoy! Good luck! Keep on harpin’!
1st Position, 1 Hole Splits: “Two Stream Serenade”
Now that’s TOO COOL TO DROOL!!!
Hey, I’ve been playing around with the single blocked hole sounds, and it’s fun…not very successful, but great fun.
That’s funny, I actually attempted it too!
I can tongue block okay for two-hole octaves, bending, etc. But the single tip of the tongue is giving me a big case of Baby Mouth; so I’m dripping and gooping up the works. Know what I mean?
Thing is, even though there’s a difference in hole size between the Lee Oskars and the Spec20s - It happens on both. :o
And so I’m sacrificing my LOs until I can get the salivating down enough to play on the Spec20s. ;D
Rock on, yo!
Do you have trouble switching between these models? Which has tighter spacing?
Great question BB!
I don’t have any pics to show you - But the LOs definitely have the larger holes over the Spec20s.
For some or many the LOs may be good for them when they’re starting out.
If they do start out with LOs, and then try a Spec20, their mouths et al will be in for a surprise as they’ll have kind of a ‘shringage’ feeling. And it will take some sort of adjustment. Much akin to when I went from a ‘flat top’ harp to the Big River with its more rounded covers. The change was dramatic.
Yet with continued playing and working with mouth lips and so forth - Within a relatively short period of time, I became accustomed to everything and decided I actually liked them.
As far as covers go, a real shocker was the TurboLid or TurboCover on the TurboHarps I purchased. Admittedly, by comparison to anything else I presently have, the contour is a bit funkier and wider, as well as very smooth.
While I gave my reviews of my ongoing experiences with the TurboHarps elsewhere on the forum - Still, I actually do like the one TurboHarp in Low F I kept. For me, the design of the TurboHarp and TurboCover kind of grows on you. Know what I mean?
Anyways, as far as spacing goes between the LO and Spec20 - Well, just because the holes are bigger in the LO doesn’t mean their ‘tighter’ either.
On the dvds where JP talks about harmonica choices and makes recommendations - He too says that for him he has to open up and set/gap Lee Oskars to sound and respond properly to his playing. So for a beginner who knows absolutely knowing about maintenance and just wants to learn how to play this instrument - And since they do play good right out of the box - Is why he and many other teachers recommend the Spec20.
I do have to do some work on my Lee Oskars too. Yet this has only been on the straight key harps in my set. Surprisingly, the LO Harmonic Minor in A that I’ve acquired to learn JP’s Gyspsy Harmonica has worked near perfectly since I picked it up last January. Haven’t found a need to open it up once. Nice, eh?!
Oh finally, and similar to the topic at hand - If you have such in your collection, you may want to try this:
I like taking two completely different makes and models of harps in different keys and play them simultaneously. Say for instance a GM key of G as one and Big River key of Bb as another.
If you can ‘one hand’ both, great. If not, just change one out for the other while playing some simple chords or tunes -
And no matter what it sounds like, yet hopefully cool - Still, this will give you the necessary mouth and embouchure experiences teaching you how to ‘switch up’ or ‘switch out’ harps at a moments notice. Try it - It’s fun!!
Hope all this helps!
Keep on jammin’!
SPD did I miss your review on the turbo harps, didn’t see your review on them anywhere ??? ???
Either one has bats in the belfry or been chasing mice in the basement - I don’t know, maybe both?! hehehe!
Been up for a couple of days now, JF! :o
Not a question; meaning, the post! mwuahahahaha!
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