I read through the comments on correcting a reed plate that is not straight. One thing I want to clarify is that I lightly sand the reed plates to see where the plate needs straightening. I/M/O if you have a plate that has a larger part of the plate that needs help the sanding is excellent to spot the problem area. If its large area that is dark ( shows no contact from sanding ) and in the center of the plate I use claws to slightly bend the plate and then sand again. Point is sanding will help but only sanding a plate that has a bow in it may not be your best option. Sanding is a great way to spot your problem areas but the claws will get your plate closer to the point only a little more sanding is needed. Its a sand and check game. I make slight adjustments with the claws until a sanding shows no dark areas. It has been the most efficient way for me. But if your plate only needs a small amount of correction then sanding until the plate is correct works. Sanding will show the problem areas very well. A combination of sanding and making small reshaping with claws is the way to go if you have a plate that needs significant correction. Hopefully this will reduce your time working on a harp and increase the amount of time you play it. This was a very frustrating situation for me when I began to play the harmonica and hopefully this post will help you avoid the frustration I went through.
I don’t have claws I have a small semi-circular rats tail file and a flat glass surface, I very gently bend the plate place it on the flat surface to see no light is shining through. Then I sand, it’s very rare I over bend the plate. I don’t use emery paper I use a very flat wet and dry stone sanding in both directions this gives me a very flat surface and doesn’t take as long. I was experimenting with gaskets but honestly to my ears I can’t hear that much difference
Claws just save some time. I use wet and dry 1600 sand paper. As far as gaskets I have never seen anything good about them. If the reed and face plates are straight you should be fine. One thing that has helped me is cleaning my harps with alcohol. Its very quick and works well. I use only plastic combs.
When I decided to try the harp about three weeks of frustration caused by air leaks and reeds that needed gapping were frustrating. I live out in the hills and getting help was not an option. I have met a few really good helpful players over the last year. One thing I really appreciate about this forum is everyone is so helpful and I do not have to read any political posts. No-one seems to be a person that wants to be anything but helpful and to those I appreciate all that do so.
Scott4
Yes I use Isopropanol which is 100% surgical spirit then I flush them through with water. I have a little spray bottle that I spray the harps with after use. I don’t like the political crap either my thoughts on that are meet the new boss same as the old boss.
I have sanded many draw plates flat. However, I used a poor method - I just kept sanding until it was flat. This ends up making the reedplate thinner, by exactly the amount of curvature the plate has.
So what you are describing is a vastly better method. I do know that machinists will use a blue dye to make it easier to visually spot plates that are not flat.
You can use a sharpie?
After a few rotations in both direction the portion of the plate that shins is making contact and the darker places are the problems. Hogie.Harmonica nailed it with his post.