I have a question regarding the original Easttop Forerunner (the original). I’ve regained a lot of interest in learning chromatic after watching a Youtuber named Mayu Shibuki with her covers and original works on the chromatic. I want to learn chromatic as I hope to be more versatile as a harmonica player, but I won’t be using them for classical. I might do some Jazz and Pop melodies and possibly seek out some of Terry McMillan’s chromatic work (as he played chromatic too even though he’s mostly known as a diatonic player). My question is would this be a good choice for a diatonic player who wants to learn chromatic?
Let me say that I don’t have a lot of disposable income to spend on a several hundred dollar chromatic from Hohner or Suzuki. I just want a traditional style 12-hole chromatic that could get me started. I don’t want the non slider chrom from Seydel nor the Trochilus/Game Changer from JDR. I might experiment with those in the future, but not for right now.
My experience is that for a diatonic player moving to a chromatic the easiest and most satisfying chromatic would be a chromatic without valves. I have both the Seydel NonSlider and the East Top Forerunner 2.0 as well as several valved chomatics. Given your situation, the Forerunner 2.0 would be the one that is in your budget and it is an excellent harp for the money.
The main reasons for a diatonic player to select a chromatic without valves are:
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Vavles are a major pain the neck! A diversion from practicing and spontaneously playing whenever and wherever you desire – all things diatonic players are accustomed to doing and probably expecting to do with their chromatic harp.
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Bending on a chromatic without valves is also much more intuitive and quick to learn for diatonic players.
I wish that I had not thrown my money out the window (as far as I see it) buying the valved chromatics that I have. I always thought that maybe a better (more expensive) valved harp would resolve my issues with the vavles. WRONG !!
Maybe others have different experiences and advice for you, but since you are on a tight budget, consider carefully before giving out those dollars! 
Best regards,
– Slim 
Thank you so much for your help, @Slim. Both versions of the Easttop Forerunner are valveless, but the original is slightly cheaper.
@KeroroRinChou If you look at any of my threads you’ll see that I now pretty well always play chromatic and my instruments of choice are Easttop forerunners. Personally I don’t see much difference between the original and the foorerunner2 except the original is only available in C. I use mine for studio work where I hardly ever get advance notice of what is going to be required and they are ideal. As a session player I’ve several different makes but the forerunners are my go-to harps of choice and I use a forerunner original as my C harp. OK, I spend some time customising mine, it keeps the sound engineers happy but out-of-the-box they are fine. If you look at my introduction post there’s a picture of the main kit. Other benefits are that Easttop are very easy to deal with; Forerunner can be washed and dried with no problems. I also have the T10-40, a bit limiting and has different tuning so probably not for you. Don’t hesitate to ask if there’s anything else Jay1
Thank you so much.
Hi @Jay1
Since I also do some customizing myself (but only on diatonics so far) I am very interested in what changes you have made on your Forerunners. Are you just adjusting reed gaps and possibly tuning the reeds more precisely, or are you doing things such as embossing, reed stabilization and reed shaping? Or even other things …
Thanks in advance,
– Slim
Hi @Slim, certainly embossing, reed tuning etc. but to start I strip each instrument totally and start with the comb using a glass base and gradually working from 400 to 2000 wet and dry to get it smooth, not just under the reed plates and the plates themselves but where the slide goes, then the slide gets a going over, removing any burrs, cleaning each hole and ensuring it fits exactly to the mouthpiece. Next the mouthpiece using fine grinding paste is made to fit against the comb so as to minimize air loss around the two part slide. need to be very careful doing this, it’s easy to take too much off. It can take me 2 - 3 days to get an out-of-the-box chromatic how I want it and for final finishing I use toothpaste, apart from anything else it tastes better than grinding paste! It’s all part of the 20/80 rule, only 20% is really effective but it’s not knowing which 20% so the other 80% has to be done as well. Jay1
Thank you all so much for helping, but I was offered a Kongsheng Lyra 12-hole from somebody who is a close friend of mine. I can’t wait to receive it soon.
You obviously have better friends than I do!!! Lyra looks a nice harp, it’s one I’ve never played so tell us all how you like it. Jay1
Fantastic !! Maybe you will not have the issues that I have had with valves – and even if you do it will not have used any of your money, so you could still buy one of the Forerunner models as well !! What a great opportunity !
So yes, as @Jay1 requested, please let us know how it goes.
Regards,
– Slim
Very helpful thread. Do Easttop Chromatics burn out quickly? I was interested in the Forerunner 2.
You need to ask someone who uses them more regularly, such as @Jay1
– Slim
@Dk360 @Slim I’ve used East:Top customised Forerunner chromatics for about 2 years and so far never had a problem. But I only play at a recording studio where I’m using my mic so no need to play hard and secondly I look after my harps and clean them after every session. There are some very minor changes between Forerunner 1 and 2 but Forerunner 1 is only available in C. Personally I prefer the Forerunner 1 cover plate, all of the others I have to wrap the back of the covers with self amalgamating tape for grip. Have a look at Easttop 1248NV (forerunner) fan club it only about Forerunner1. Jay1