Hi all! Hope this finds everyone pide-pipering away!
So I’ve notice that I need to dial in some of my harps now that I am playing with much less force. My question is what size feeler gauges do I need to adjust the gaps on my harps?
I have several different brands including Hohner, Suzuki and Seydel so I assume the different material reeds require different size gauges. I know this is a personal thing but I’m wondering if there’s somewhere I should start.
I’ve heard .002” is a good starting point but I want to verify. Also when I move a draw Reed, doesn’t that affect the blow Reed?
Let’s say my 3 hole draw feels like it is difficult to bend…. Would I narrow the draw Rees gap and open the blow Reed gap? Just looking for a little guidance before I dive in.
I own feeler gauges and use them for many things - gapping harps is not one of them. For that, I use a toothpick (or similar thing made of brass), my eyes, and playing.
My first question - are you looking to make the harp more responsive? Or are you are you looking for specific things like smooth bends, overblows?
As for your question, if your 3 hole is hard to bend, make the gap on the blow reed smaller.
Use a dead harp. You’ll break. a reed or two as you learn to do this.
Thanks for the reply. So to answer your question yes I want them to be more responsive. For example the Manjis I have hole 3 is a bear to bend. I can bend all other harps no issue so I know it’s the harp. It doesn’t choke off when I play hard but it don’t want to bend without much effort so the gap needs to be smaller.
I think I found the answer to my hypothetical hole 3 question: when we draw bend air come in through the blow hole so you just don’t want it to be too super tight. So if I understand it correctly I just want to make sure the note plays when playing a sudden “hard” note and doesn’t choke off.
So yeah the harps I need to adjust are due to the reeds not being as responsive or sounding breathy almost. I never play the manji C harp I have because it’s so bad so maybe I’ll use it as my test subject.
My other C harp is in need of some work as it’s tough to bend compared to my seydel 1847s (my favorite harp so far). Btw the C harp I use is a special 20 so that may explain the different feel. I tend to play a bit harder than most so I know this will need to be taken into consideration.
As far as using my eyes, I’m blind in my right eye and can’t see out of the other so that wouldn’t be the best route for me.
I found a couple good videos on gapping today. Brendan Power has a great one and so does Davis Barrett.
I like an Ex Acto knife with a very thin diagonal blade. You can plink the reeds easily and the back side is flat, which enables me to move a reed up or down with no damage. It has a good point that slides easily under the reed. If I close a reed too much the blade will not slide under. I look over each reed with a 10x loop to make sure they are what I want. I would start with the reed gapped up about the thickness of the reed.
As far as gap size if you can get a quick response with little effort you getting close but small changes are a must. From what you posted the harps that respond quicker are closer to what you want. Take a look at the difference in the ones you like and those you don’t. I am a firm believer that harps do not like a cold or damp environment. I use plastic combs so I can dip my harps in alcohol to clean them and let them dry for a few minutes. Bends are easier and draw notes take very little effort. All the above is based on my experience. The 7 through 10 draw notes are also much easier if the harp is clean and warm, provided the gap is correct. I hated the -8 until I got an air tight harp and the reeds set right. I was putting too much force into it.
I am self taught so I suggest you watch U Tube to see how the pros do it before you dive in. You may consider using a cheap harp to begin with as any mistakes are not as costly.
I think depending on playing style and approach you’ll have a lot of different answers to this question. I find point zero at the end of the reed at the back nearest the rivet and pushing it down then I use a gapping tool to open up the reed. By bending it back very gently, like @Hogie.Harmonica says I use my eye and a good light source I shine behind the harp to get the gapping I want. I plink the reed. The reed is a spring so it will return to its original position so plinking til you’ve got the desired gap ( this may several attempts) and that’s pretty much it. I think most players adjust the reeds to suit them. But you can’t really go wrong unless you go at it like a bull in a china shop, gently does it it the key word. @Hogie.Harmonica has an absolutely great sound on his harps you might want to check out his YouTube channel and have a listen.
